Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
